Table saws typically come with short built-in outfeed tables which can be an issue when cutting longer boards. Roller stands are your go-to solution here, though they also have their limitations. A DIY Tablesaw Outfeed Table can solve this issue by offering a convenient surface near the table saw for cutting long sheet goods securely and conveniently! This makes ripping long sheet goods much safer and simpler!
Top
A table saw outfeed table is an indispensable tool for cutting long materials with your table saw. Not only does it provide support, but it also prevents the workpiece from tilting during processing - which could result in incorrect cuts. A good outfeed table should be lower than your saw table by 1/8 inch, to provide a smooth transition from the saw to its top. It could just be an attached plywood base that attaches to the bottom of your saw or it could include storage cabinets and drawers for organizing jigs and other small tools.
To build a DIY Tablesaw Outfeed Table, you'll need some tools and basic woodworking skills. Begin by crafting the top of the table using MDF or another type of wood with a low-friction surface. Start by cutting two MDF core pieces (pieces 1 and 2) to size, then brad nail them together. Next, trim pieces of plastic laminate to fit on top and bottom of the core (pieces 3 and 4), using contact cement, a J-roller, and spacers as necessary to align both surfaces.
Once the top is assembled, attach it to the base with screws. Be sure to predrill holes through both surfaces prior to screwing on, and make sure the lag bolts used for fastening are secure and level before tightening them. Once the top and bottom edges have been finished, add hardwood edging around their perimeters. To make sure it looks perfect, take time to round its ends using a disc sander for maximum polish. Now you should have a sturdy outfeed table capable of handling large pieces of wood. Just be sure to use a stop block to keep the material from rolling while passing through the outfeed table.
If you plan to utilize an outfeed table with a router, installing miter gauge grooves on its top can be done easily. Doing this will enable your router to guide material as it transitions from your table saw to the outfeed table.
Bottom
Table saw outfeed tables provide a secure way to guide wood past the blade while it's running, serving also as a work surface for assembly and finishing projects. You can add cabinets beneath this outfeed table to store tools like rip fences, miter gauges, crosscut sleds, and blades. This table's main structural element is a low-friction phenolic-plywood top (pieces 3 and 4), laminated to an MDF core (pieces 1 and 2). It's easy to assemble and resists stains, glue, and scratches. Once installed, the top can be covered in a protective polyurethane coating to protect the wood and reduce wear and tear.
The bottom frame is constructed with end and center panels connected by brads driven through each corner to keep them square during clamping. A thoughtful layout of joint locations takes away much of the hassle from butt joints, while a few strategically placed brads act as a third hand when marking screw holes. Create miter slots at the top of your outfeed table, parallel and square to the back edge. Make sure the slot width is just wide enough for 3/4-in. miter slots on your tablesaw, but if necessary, trim some of its widths.
To attach the outfeed table to a saw stand, construct a mounting plate from laminated Douglas-fir 4x4s and an oak hardwood strip (piece 20). Plane it down until it lies about 1/16" below the top face of the tablesaw's fence rail, then ease it with a round over bit for swing clearance. Next, drill pilot holes for the lag screws that secure the mounting plate to the fence rail. Attach this part with five lag screws and washers (pieces 21), spaced evenly along its length so that none of these screws protrude into or near your saw's miter slot location.
Finally, cut a filler strip from lumber to fit the front bottom edge of the table core and machine it with two small dadoes that tuck into pockets for leg pivot brackets (pieces 6). Attach this piece of lumber onto the top of the core with glue and screws.
Legs
The outfeed table is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment you can have for your woodworking shop. It can hold sheet goods, project workpieces, and other large objects that need support while you cut them. You may add cubbyholes, doors, or drawers to it if desired, but for long-lasting performance simply provide a flat surface.
To attach the outfeed table to your saw, you have two options: angle-iron fence systems front and back or bolting it directly to the metal fence rail of your saw. Either way, make sure that you cut a groove into the top of the table that matches up with your saw's miter-gauge slots. Doing this makes aligning it with these locations much simpler as well as re-flushing any workpiece edges after cutting them.
Aside from its obvious practicality, having a miter-gauge groove on your outfeed table's top gives you an opportunity to add extra safety to your workspace. In my case, I added a piston mechanism that stops the outfeed table from moving away from my workpieces while I'm cutting them. I built the piston mechanism using three 9-inch long framing lumber blocks that had been run through a table saw to reduce them to about 1/32" shorter than their widths. After gluing and screwing these together with clamps, I made a top block through which the bolt that locks the piston portion of the outfeed table's leg to its plate could thread. This was secured to the piston portion with lock nuts and washers, while a locking caster was fastened onto the bottom end with lag screws into pre-drilled holes at its lowest point.
Finally, I wrapped the entire outfeed table in hardwood edging and secured it all with 1-1/2" brad nails. You should round the ends of this edging on a disc sander before nailing it down so that there are no sharp corners later on. Finally, cover the entire edge with polyurethane or another sealant of your choice for protection.
Cabinet
A table saw's outfeed table is essential equipment for safe woodworking, allowing you to control a workpiece as it passes the blade. It also serves as an ideal spot to set up crosscut sleds, miter gauges, and other jigs. Building one isn't difficult and will last you for years. The outfeed table should be set lower by 1/8 inch than the saw's tabletop, to ensure workpieces move smoothly across it. This keeps them away from any edge of the table and reduces the risk of injury. You can customize this with cabinets, drawers, or mobile bases to meet your specific requirements.
For this project, I used 4x8 sheets of phenolic plywood for the tabletop and drawer fronts. It's tough, slick, and resists glue and stains well. You could also opt for medium-density fiberboard (MDF) or ordinary plywood if desired. Before assembling the tabletop, cut slots in its top aligned with your saw's miter-gauge slots. If your saw has an angle-iron fence system front and back, you can attach the outfeed table to its flange using a groove; if not, bolt it onto the flange and drill two holes at its top for mounting purposes.
Next, cut the leg and housing pieces to length and secure them with bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts. Mark the bottom corners of each leg extension so they fit against the leg stop; trim these accordingly. Continue with all other leg pieces. When everything is assembled correctly, clamp it against the leg stop for adjustments or reclamp as necessary until your table fits securely on it.
Once the table is assembled, wrap it with hardwood edging and attach it with brad nails. This will protect the core from scratches as you use it, giving the table a polished appearance.
If you need a sturdy outfeed table that's simple to construct, Ben Stone's folding workstation is an excellent option. Its design is straightforward yet functional and versatile; plus, it adds capacity to your tablesaw.