Add an outfeed table to your tablesaw for safer and easier cutting of longer boards. While there are multiple methods of building one, this simple yet reliable and flexible model takes only hours to make.
Start by laminating the top and side panels together to form a solid base, trimming and sanding edges to smooth them over.
Top
A tablesaw outfeed table is essential when it comes to safely feeding longer pieces through your tablesaw. Roller stands and flip stands may help but can be cumbersome to use and could tip over at the wrong time, leading to frustration when trying to feed boards through. Instead of making do with just any workbench or workbench cabinet for this job, build this outfeed cabinet; it is simple yet stylish enough that even novice woodworkers could do it!
First, cut four narrow leg pieces to 3.5", using your miter saw. Attach these to the base of your frame using lag bolts. Next, cut four wide legs (2 3/4") that you will attach to the top of the frame using lag bolts; adjust their height according to the height of your saw's table; ideally the outfeed table should be lower than its counterpart for easier transition between tables.
Center and end panels feature Baltic-birch bases with phenolic plywood tops for good looks, durability, and low friction. It is very simple to adapt this unit's dimensions to match those of your tablesaw (this model fits a SawStop Jobsite saw), although you could make adjustments larger or smaller as per your needs.
Once your frame is assembled, take care to sand each wooden component through all grits before applying a wipe-on finish to ensure all surfaces are smooth. This will ensure everything is ready for its next steps.
Install short trim pieces along both the front and back sides of the outfeed table using short pieces cut using the miter saw, wood glue, brad nails or brad nail gun if preferred. After all the trim pieces have been installed, sand any edges around it before filling any nail holes with wood putty.
Bottom
Those with cabinet saws know it can be challenging to move boards over the outfeed table without hitting them against the iron table - an inconvenience and safety risk. This project provides an effective solution.
Fold up against the back of your cabinet to minimize its footprint and stow when not in use, saving space you would otherwise need for outfeed tables erected against walls or workbenches. Furthermore, it can easily match up with either cast iron saw table and wings or sliding tablesaw width requirements.
The frame consists of four parts, including a bottom and subtop, two end panels, and the top made from phenolic plywood - which has a surface so smooth it almost allows materials to float across it and is resistant to glues and stains. Subtop, drawer fronts, and kick plates are made out of medium-density fiberboard (MDF), making this cheaper but still strong enough for this task.
I selected piano hinges to assemble the outfeed table as they offer less slop than similar leaf hinges and greater strength. To further strengthen them, I drilled 5/8-diameter pilot holes on either side of each head for use with lag screws.
Once your outfeed table frame has been assembled and secured, attaching its subtop is next. It's best done while the frame is upside-down for easier sliding; then just aligning its holes with those in the outfeed table frame before screwing it to secure.
Before attaching the top, drill four lag screws through each corner of the plate into the frame at each of its four corners. These will allow you to easily adjust the height of your table if ever necessary, and prevent shifting during operation.
Sides
An outfeed table can be an essential piece of equipment when it comes to safe woodworking, helping guide long boards past the saw blade and off of the back of the machine safely. Furthermore, it serves as both work surface and storage space for jigs and sleds; and this version comes equipped with many upgrades specifically tailored for contractor saws:
Building a folding outfeed table from plywood can be easy enough, but this one adds an extra layer of melamine for an even smoother work surface and smoother drawer movement than typical plywood construction would allow.
Start by cutting table core pieces (pieces 1 and 2) to size, gluing and clamping them together with hot glue, driving brads through their corners to prevent shifting while it dries, then covering with plastic laminate (pieces 3 and 4).
Once the laminate is in place, cut the sides to length and secure them using a drill. While screws or lag bolts could work just as well for this project, I opted for lag bolts as they're less likely to loosen over time and can even help level the table on uneven floors.
If you choose to add casters, secure them to the legs by tightening four screws (piece 8 and 9). After moving your outfeed table cabinet into position and screwing it to its respective caster bases (with four 4-inch long lag screws from pieces 8 and 9), make sure the miter slots on both frames line up, as well as that your outfeed table sits at an equal height relative to your saw's fence.
This outfeed table features a heavy-duty welded steel support plate capable of holding materials weighing up to 250 pounds, as well as stamped steel support feet that make the table more stable on uneven floors. If welding your own foot isn't an option, standard ball-bearing slides from home centers provide better bearings and setup more quickly than weldless options.
Legs
Woodworkers who frequently utilize their tablesaw need an outfeed table. Crafting your own outfeed cabinet is an enjoyable project that provides plenty of storage, extends work surface length or can fold away completely if desired. Plans for this project include one compatible with both Industrial Cabinet Saw mobile bases and Professional Cabinet Saw mobile bases, plus foldable legs to let this design fold away out of sight when not being used.
As the centerpiece for an outfeed table, this cabinet-based structure was designed to accommodate Systainers (shown here nested). These cabinets can be built as long or short as needed; most shops benefit from at least 30" wide by 18" deep pairs. Each cabinet also comes equipped with an opening hinge door which makes accessing boxes much simpler and faster.
The cabinet itself is constructed out of 3/4" plywood. When selecting material for such projects, quality plywood is key - cheaper options tend to warp and sag over time, creating an uneven work surface which makes aligning jigs or attachments difficult.
As with the frame, it's crucial that cabinet parts be pre-drilled prior to assembly; this ensures the screws don't bite too hard into the wood underneath and cause any damage. Once assembled, sand the edges and corners smooth before adding trims.
Install the mounting plate on your portable saw stand is also an essential step of this project, to prevent downward-curving boards from hitting on the leading edge of the outfeed table and becoming trapped there. We suggest lag-lagger this plate 1/8", to prevent downward curves catching.
To begin, place the mounting plate against the stand and mark where your mounting holes will go. Next, use a drill with bits that match the diameter of your bolts to bore these holes before inserting your bolts and tapping them with a hammer to secure them in their positions.